Some Attractions
Alte Oper (Old Opera House)
Built between 1873 and 1880 and gutted in World War II,
Frankfurt's Old Opera House has been beautifully
reconstructed.
Goethehaus und
Goethemuseum (Goethe's House and Museum)
The house where Germany's most famous poet was born in
1749 is furnished with many original pieces that belonged
to his family, including manuscripts in his own hand
Museum für Moderne
Kunst (Musuem of Modern Art)
Sachsenhausen
The old quarter of Sachsenhausen, on the south bank of the
Main River, has been sensitively preserved, and its
cobblestone streets, half-timbered houses, and beer
gardens make it a very popular area to stroll in.
Judisches Museum
(Jewish Museum)
Römer (City Hall)
The mercantile-minded Frankfurt burghers used the complex
of three patrician buildings not only for political and
ceremonial purposes but also for trade fairs and other
commercial ventures.
FRESSGASSE
("Pig-Out Alley"). Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse
is the proper name of this street, one of the city's
liveliest thoroughfares, but Frankfurters have given it
this sobriquet because of its amazing choice of
delicatessens, wine merchants, cafés, and restaurants.
Food shops offer fresh or smoked fish, cheeses, and a wide
range of local specialties, including Frankfurter
sausages. In the summer you can sit at tables on the
sidewalk and dine alfresco.
PALMENGARTEN UND
BOTANISCHER GARTEN (Tropical Garden and Botanical
Gardens). A splendid cluster of tropical and semitropical
greenhouses contains a wide variety of flora, including
cacti, orchids, and palms. The surrounding park has many
recreational facilities, including a little lake where you
can rent rowboats. Between the Palmengarten and the
adjoining Grüneburgpark, the botanical gardens have a
wide assortment of wild, ornamental, and rare plants from
around the world. During most of the year there are flower
shows and exhibitions; in summer concerts are held in an
outdoor music pavilion. Siesmayerstr. 63, PHONE:
069/2123-3939. COST: DM
7. Mar.-Sept., daily 9-6; Oct. and Feb., daily 9-5;
Nov.-Jan., daily 9-4. www.stadt-frankfurt.de/Palmengarten
Frankfurt
Restaurants
Frankfurt offers a wide selection of cuisine including
Mediterranean, Thai, Japanese, Latin American and of
course German. The city's most famous speciality is
Frankfurter Wurstchen, a long, thin, smoked pork sausage,
together with Frankfurt Crown Cake with a delicious
praline topping. The classic regional drink is 'ebbelwoi',
an apple wine, often found in traditional taverns and
served in decorative clay pitchers. Sold in varying
strengths, some of them can be deceptively strong.
Erno's Bistro - Erno's is
something of a Frankfurt institution. It's small and chic
- very popular with visiting power brokers - and
offers classic French cuisine.
Liebigstrasse 15, Frankfurt-am-Main
Tel: +49 69 7219 97
Humperdinck
- Alfred Friedrich, formerly the head chef of Brückenkeller,
launched his own business by taking over and renovating
this restaurant. He regales the lucky diners at his 15
tables in an elegant, neo-baroque setting with some of the
most creative cooking in Frankfurt.
Grüneburgweg 95, Liebigstrasse,
Frankfurt-am-Main
Tel: +49 69 9720 3154
BISTROT 77 - Proprietor-chef
Dominique, who learned his trade in the French Alsace
region, serves a three-course regional meal daily in this
spare bistro with plain walls and a tile floor.
Ziegelhüttenweg 1-3, Frankfurt, Germany
Tel: +49 069/614-040
Brückenkeller - This highly regarded restaurant near
the Dom (cathedral) in the old town has a new chef (Frank
Buchholz) and a new philosophy, with the owner insisting
that he no longer aspires to Michelin stars and
Gault-Millau toques.
Schützenstr. 6
Tel: +49 069-298-0070.
Altes Zollhaus - Within this beautiful 200-year-old
half-timbered house you can enjoy very good traditional
German specialties.
Friedberger Landstr. 531
Tel: +49 069-472-707
Gargantua - One of Frankfurt's most creative chefs, Klaus
Trebes, serves up new versions of German classics and
French-accented dishes in a Westend dining room decorated
with contemporary art.
Liebigstr. 47
Tel: +49 069-720718
Cafes
CAFÉ LAUMER - The ambience of
an old-time Viennese café, with a subdued decor,
ballustraded terrace, and rear garden, is well preserved
here. Come for the variety of coffees and mouthwatering
cake buffet.
Bockenheimer Landstr. 67, Frankfurt, Germany
Phone: 069/727-912
Nightlife
Wagons and pushcarts decorate AN
SIBIN, an Irish cellar pub. (Wallstr. 9, PHONE:
069/603-2159). Serious elbow lifting and heartfelt
conversations take place in English, Gaelic, Hessian
dialect, and German. There is live music most nights along
with Guinness right out of the keg and some good pub grub.
It's closed Sunday.
The tiny, cozy BALALAIKA (Dreiköigstr. 30, PHONE:
069/612-226), in Sachsenhausen, provides intimacy
and live music without charging the fancy prices you'd
expect at such a place. The secret is proprietress Anita
Honis, a professional American singer from Harlem, who
usually gets out her acoustic guitar several times during
an evening.
Frankfurt teems with Irish pubs, but FOX AND HOUND
(Niedenau 2, PHONE: 069/9720-2009)
is the only English pub in town. The patrons,
mainly British, come to watch constant satellite
transmissions of the latest soccer, rugby, and cricket
matches, to enjoy the authentic pub grub (try the basket
of chips), and to participate in the Sunday-night quiz for
free drinks and cash prizes. It's a noisy bunch.
Hot newcomer LIVING (Kaiserstr. 29, PHONE:
069/242-9370), one of the biggest bar-restaurants
in Germany, is in the equally "in" Eurotower,
the headquarters of the newly established European Central
Bank. Its spacious, terraced interior has drawn
architectural praise. On Friday and Saturday it offers a
"subdued" disco, geared to the easy-listening
preferences of the banking community, but it's not so
prudish as to exclude regular gay entertainment.
Bizarre as it may seem, DORIAN GRAY
(Terminal 1, Section C, Level O, PHONE:
069/6902-2121), at the airport, is one of
Frankfurt's best clubs for techno music. It's easily
reached by the S-bahn. It's closed Monday and Tuesday.
The very trendy FANTASY GARDEN (Seilerstr. 34, PHONE:
069/285-055) is a bistro, bar, and dance club in
one with an Asian-Egyptian-Californian atmosphere. Drinks
have names like "Orgasmus," and mescal is served
with a worm. The California-style food (served until
midnight) leans toward salads and vegetables. There is a
terrace for cooling off.
New on the scene is KING KAMAHAMEHA (Hanauer
Landstr. 192, PHONE: 069/4059-1194).
Beneath the heating pipes of a former brewery are a dance
floor and stage. When there isn't a live concert or a DJ
on the stage, there may be comedy, cabaret, or a fashion
show. If the noise is too much, there's a quiet bar
downstairs. It's closed Monday.
DER FRANKFURTER JAZZKELLER (Kleine Bockenheimer
Str. 18a, PHONE: 069/288-537).
The oldest jazz cellar in Germany was founded by legendary
trumpeter Carlo Bohländer. It offers hot modern jazz,
which is often free, but for some performances has a DM 25
cover charge. It's closed Monday.
DREIKÖNIGSKELLER (Faerberstr. 71, PHONE:
069/629-273). The cellar fills up with jazz and
jazz enthusiasts, as well as smoke. Anything can happen,
and you might hear 1940s or '50s jazz, blues, funk,
rock-wave, or indie-punk. It's patronized mostly by
students, with a sprinkling of hip older people.
SINKKASTEN (Brönnerstr. 5-9, PHONE:
069/280-385). This club is a class act - a great
place for jazz, rock, pop, and African music. It's
sometimes hard to get into, but worth the effort. There's
live music Tuesday-Wednesday and weekends.
COOKY'S (Am Salzhaus 4, PHONE:
069/287-662) is open into the wee hours and is one
of the most popular local haunts for rock music; live
bands perform on Monday night. You can also dance and have
a meal.
Wine Bar: - Popular with crowds before
and after performances at the nearby Old Opera, VINUM
(9 Kleine Hochstr. PHONE: 069/293-037)
is in an vaulted cellar lined with wine kegs. The food,
unlike the wine, is overpriced.
Useful
Information:
Getting from the airport to town and exploring the
city
The Frankfurt-Main International Airport
is about 11 kilometres (7 miles) from the city. An
inexpensice train service operates between the airport and
the city centre. This journey takes 20 minutes by taxi and
costs around 40 DM. The city has excellent bus, train and
tram services as well as taxi and car hire services.
The Hauptbahnhof (main train station)
area and adjoining Westend district are mostly devoted to
business, and banks tower overhead. You'll find the
department stores of the Hauptwache and Zeil only a few
blocks east of the station, but avoid the drug-ridden
red-light district, also near the station.
Until it was bombed by the Allies in World War II,
Frankfurt's Altstadt (Old Town) contained Germany's
biggest section of medieval buildings. The area is now
much diminished, because very little of it was restored
after the war, and most of the medieval structures were
replaced by modern office buildings. What remains of the
Old Town is close to St. Bartholomäus and the Römer, or
City Hall. The Sachsenhausen district, across the Main
River, is another area to see the Frankfurt of yesterday.
The city's smooth-running, well-integrated public
transportation system (called RMV) consists of the
U-bahn (subway), S-bahn (suburban railway), Strassenbahn
(streetcars), and buses. Fares for the entire system are
uniform, though they are based on a complex zone system.
The Frankfurt tourist office offers a one- or two-day
ticket - the Frankfurt Card - allowing unlimited
travel in the inner zone (and to the airport) and a 50%
reduction on admission to 15 museums (DM 12 for one day,
DM 19 for two days).
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